Grignan, Drome Provencal- a heavenly slice of Provence

Last spring, we had the chance to take some time off with some friends to visit the French department of Drome.  Drome is just south of Isere and just north of Provence.   The original idea was to stay as close as possible to Valence and visit the Valhrona chocolate factory (again).

 I did some research on some "Chambres D'hôtes" (that's french for B&B) and "Gites" and since we were a large group of 10 (silly me, I made the reservation for 8, thank god the Gite still had space), there were only a few Gites that could accomodate all of us.

Yeah that's our laundry

A Gite is basically a series of Chambres D'hotes put together.  A Gite can be a stand alone house, or a connected house with our without a kitchen. The one that I settled on was La Croix du Gres- the location was a bit far but the website and photographs convinced me that it was the way to go (*ahem importance of having a good website). The complex is run by Noelle and her partner Sid with the help of Noelle's children and really super friendly son.  The complex is completely interconnected and consists of 2 houses and a series of Apartments with kitchens and rooms without kitchens.  Noelle, her family, the dogs, cats and horses also offer home cooked meals, horse rides, an outdoor pool, lots of lavender, rosemary and thyme and super knowledge of the area and a whole lotta hospitality.

Nothing beats a sunset dinner overlooking the French countryside

The Gites were extremely charming and impeccably decorated.  Most of the wall art was created by Noelle's grandfather who also built the Gite(s) himself. The Gite also features an enormous Salon or living room that houses a huge fireplace and more amazing art.  Noelle and her family offer dinners in the living room where guests help to prepare the food that is cooked in this gigantic fireplace.  It's amazing to think that her grandfather put everyone of these gigantic stones into place.

We were lucky enough to make it to the local farmer's market in Grignan.  It has been a long time since I've gone to such a comprehensive market.  The produce was fresh, in abundance and just gorgeous!

Just a little peak at the amazing variety of food: naturally flavored wild honey, lavender, amazingly tasty saucissons, world famous Montmelier nougat, confit garlic (my husband tried a piece and didn't have stinky breath afterwards. he said it was mild and very tasty), asparagus and onions, olive tapenade 

...And of course cheese there was wonderful gorgeous cheese. 

 Tomme de Montagne is just a generic cheese produced in the French Alps.  The taste is generally mild and fat content is usually low as the rich creamy part of the milk is used elsewhere.








Cantal is from the Auvergne region of France.  The unpasteurized cheese tends to have a tangy butter taste.  I have been told before that cheese such as this one that uses the "winter milk" meaning milk that is produced during the wintertime when the cows are kept in the stables and fed hay, the milk tends to hold less floral/ herbal/ grassy flavors.  Also, the winter milk tends to have a higher fat content, and thus (as depicted from the photograph) the winter cheese does not become as hard as summer cheese. 

 Our favorite cheese, this unpasteurized cheese is usually quite hard (still bendable).  Made in the French Comte region of Alsace, many consider Comte the French version of Gruyere.  just like Gruyere, the flavor of the cheese is strong but not harsh with a slightly sweet tinge to it. The Comte we usually find at the grocery store is aged 12- 18 months.  this fine specimen of 24 months had a stronger flavor and the delicious Comte cheese crystals that are so coveted.  I had the pleasure of dining at Arpege in Paris and man, do I wish I could get my hands on some more of their 48-60 month old Comte.

Oh, did I mention that Grignan also happens to be voted one of France's most beautiful cities?

The Tuesday market is a MUST do so if you plan on heading down to Drome, plan to be there on a Tuesday morning.  We also highly recommend staying at La Croix du Gres.

Our visit to Drome was one of the best vacations I've had in a long time. The locals in Drome are incredibly helpful and nice and the food, mind blowing.

Addresses:
La Croix du Gres
26230 Valaurie, France
+33 7 87 02 80 36
Lacroixdugres.com

Marche de Grignan
Every Tuesday 8am- 1pm

Le Perolles P.A. Ayer

Starter: Pumkin soup, creme fraiche, bacon, foie gras gele and foie gras feuillantine (delicious)

Yes yes, It's just another tease... but it takes time to write these things ok? I gotta pour over my notes, remember what I ate.. yada yada yada. Hayley and I got to go to this INCREDIBLE one michelin star in Fribourg, the next town over. Le Perolles is one of the two michelin restaurants in Fribourg Simple decor- very modern and very reasonably priced. The food was fabulous.. which will be discussed in further blogs.. in the mean time. Just a little teaser.




and of course the cheese trolley. Ok So I said that Steireck has a pretty crazy cheese trolley.. but this one.. was AMAZING. really. I would go back just for the cheese....

Le Perolles
BD de Perolles 18a
1700 Fribourg
Tel:41.026.347.40.30
ayeramey@leperolles.ch
Ferme le dimanche et lundi

St. Marcellin

Continuing on with my Michelin cheese board obsession, I had a beautiful cheese plate from the Meierei of Steirereck im Stadtpark in Vienna Austria as my fourth course from the insanely packed cheese trolley. I chose again, super runny (as usual)! My favorite cheese was the creamy gooey St. Marcellin accompanied by the home made farmers bread from the bread trolley (yes they are REALLY into trolley's in Vienna).. they also have a champagne trolley , herb trolley, and sweet liquor trolley....


Saint Marcelin is produced in the Rhone Alps region of South Eastern France in the town of Isere. A soft creamy cheese cows milk cheese composed of 50% fat, St. Marcellin has a nutty, mushroomy aroma. Usually packed in small terra cota pots to handle the creaminess, they lose their creaminess with age- and should be consumed young and tender. Much like Vacherin Mont D'Or AOC, it is believed that the cheese was originally made from goat's milk but converted to cow milk at one point in time.

Creamy, nutty , complex, rich- the rind again wonderful. It is said that the cheese should be chewed to help release its full flavor.

Two thumbs up. St. Marcellin now added to the cheese repertoire.

Vacherin Mont-d'Or AOC

Okok, so yes, I am in the land of fromage et chocolate.. and yes, I'm beginning to love ALL of it. Well maybe not the calories.. the cheese at least.. One cheese that I have been dying to try is Vacherin Mont-d'Or AOC. For me, and anyone who knows me, I am all about the goat, sheep, stinky moldy cheese OR the super runny, you know your stomach is so gonna churn later but it's gonna be so silky smooth on your tongue rich and creamy cheeses and worth all the pain cheeses.

Collecting my 7th michelin star dining experience since moving to Suisse two weeks ago at Le Perolles in Fribourg, Hayley and I added on a cheese course to our lunch sampler. I opted for a plate full of goat and sheep cheeses and an added Vacherin Mont-d'Or selection.

Vacherin Mont-d'Or (not to be confused with Vacherin Fribourgeois, which is our local AOC cheese)originates in the Valee de Joux in Jura- Canton de Vaud.It's believed that Vacherin is actually of French origin, made from goat's milk. The story goes that there was a shortage of goat's milk and thus cow's milk was used in its place. A relatively watery cheese, within every 100g, about 25% of it is fat, 55% water.

There are a couple of distinct characteristics to Vacherin:
1. the wooden pine container (band)that it's kept in (it's a super runny cheese, needs the support)
2. the orangy, yellow crust of the cheese with its soft dimples and folds of the soft cheese below.
3.There is often a white moldy fur that grows on the surface of the tangy, crusty goodness of the cheese.

I have to admit that I was hoping for something a little more pungent. The cheese is sweet, slightly tangy but not overpowering in flavor- in fact, none of the cheese I had on my plate had the punch that I had been hoping for (I love it when your nose tingles from the tanginess of the cheese). A great cheese to accompany fruits- it won't overpower the sweet/tartness of the fruit but will complement it quite well.

My favorite- favorite part of the cheese was the gritty, slightly crunchy crust layer of the cheese.. all this cheese talk in the morning is making me hungry! Must go to my local latterie today and pick up some cheese!

Swiss Cheese: Emmentaler

Swiss Cheese- we all know it. Holey cheese that you use to catch those little pesky mice running around the house. In the land of Cheese, Emmentaler is possibly the most boring cheese I now know in my repetoire of Swiss cheeses. I don't mean to diss the cheese but it really is well.. bland and boring.
Alright, so now that I've disclosed how I REALLY feel about the cheese let's get it over with Qui?
Fun Facts on Emmentaler Cheese:
Origin: 180 cheese makers in the Emme valley (around bern)
Made from: Cow milk exclusively fed on natural feed
Special Distinctions: AOC only if given 18 out of 20 rating points
Special Visual Characteristics: Holes!
Aging Period: 120 days
Fat Content: 31g per 100g
Production : Pressed in cheese wheels for about 20 hours then immersed in brine for 2 days. Kept in brine cellar at 12-16C for 20 days then into the fermentation celler at 19-24C for 6-8 weeks. Warmth of cellar starts the fermentation process. Carbon dioxide gas is created and when unable to escape, makes the holes.
Served with: blended with gruyere cheese for fondue, fruit and cheese

Yup, that's all I got for you..Sorry!

Swiss Cheese: Gruyère

Ok ok ok. I know that I have been procrastinating on this post for ages. Yes, I live in the Canton de Fribourg. Yes, I see the Gruyères Castle everyday on my morning jaunts through the forest. Why have I not blogged about Le Gruyères fromage? I have to admit, I am beginning to take it for granted.. BIG TIME. Having said that, let's get this done and over with shall we?
Gruyères Fromage is the only cheese in the world to win the best cheese in the world distinction 3 times. It was given the distinction of AOC or Appelation D'origine Controlee in 2001. History first recorded the cheese in 1655 but dates back as far as 1249. For my first Gruyère cheese purchase, I opted to go polar opposites with an Alpage and a Doux to really taste the difference between the two. I am a stinky cheese girl so yes, the Alpage is much better with a creamier more pungent flavor then the bland Doux version.
Here are some more bits and bobs about the cheese:
Origin: Canton de Fribourg,Neuchatel, Jury
Made from: Cow milk
Special Distinctions: AOC
Special Visual Characteristics: Hard cheese, shape of a millstone and brushed, grainy, uniformly brownish. Heel is slightly convex. Usually about 25-40kg
Aging Period: 5-12 months, 5 months is milk, 8 months for semi salty, 10 months for salthy and 12 months for prime quality.
Fat Content: 32%
Production: heated for 35-40 minutes until curdling at 55 C. pressed for 20 hours and immersed in a 20% salt bath. Kept in a climatized celler at 13-14 C. Turned and rubbed with salt water daily for the first 10 days then twice a week for 3 months and again once a week.
Taste profile: sale, mi sale, doux or alpage smooth, creamy, slightly damp to touch. Firm but not crumbly.
Served with: Fondue , used to make gourgères or croque monsieurs, on top of French onion soup, good melting cheese and good with figs and dates.

It is a great cheese but in my opinion, does not have the same pizzaz and creaminess that Tête de Moine posses. It is still a staple in my dorm fridge especiallz since fig season just commenced for those late night cheeky snacks...

Swiss Cheese: Tête De Moine

Whilst in the land of cows, I have been trying to take advantage of getting all the fromage I can get my little grubby hands on. Before arriving into Suisse, I did a little homework and knew that one of the cheese I needed to try right away was Tete De Moine.

Originally from the monastery of Bellelay with the cheese dating back to 1628. The cheese orginates from the . Jura region- moutier, porrentruy and courtelary and the french speaking region of the Canton of Bern. This region is closer to Lake Neuchatel ( which hopefully i'll make it to soon!)

There are a couple theories as to where the name of the cheese comes from but the most popular was that the store of cheeses in the abbey was counted per monk’s head.

Here are some more interesting facts about the cheese:

Made from: unpasteurized cow milk

Special Distinctions: AOC

Special Visual Characteristics: made into rosettes with a Girolle

Aging Period: 3-4 months

Fat Content: 35% or 51% fat in dry matter

Production: cheese matures on pine boards in the region for at least 3 months.

Color: ivory color to bright light yellow with a firm brown to reddish brown rind.

Taste profile: semi hard cheese with silky body that melts in your mouth. Roasted nuts and wine like aromas. Sweet and tangy with musty wood mold and nuts.

Served with: shaped into rosettes- paring increase amount of air coming in contact with the surface of the cheese allowing full flavor. White wine, and fruits. Make rosettes with a Girolle

Silky and smooth, tart but very full "round".. so far it's my favorite cheese!

Lake Geneva Regional Food: Raclette

Burnt Cheese. For those of you who have worked in the kitchen.. Burnt Cheese really does sound delicious.. and this is exactly what this dish is.

The dish originated in the Valais region of Switzerland where herders use to heat up their cheese over a campfire along with potatoes and pickles (well it was potatoes or bread.. it gets cold here OK?)

History has it that the dish is well over 800 years old!
Raclette cheese usually comes in a huge round.. somewhere around 15 pounds.
There are special Raclette heat lamps that melt and brown the top layer of the cheese.

The melty goodness is scraped off and served piping hot with some potatoes, pickles and plenty of raclette powder.

It is quite a heavy dish- one for the winter time. Simple. Filling. and helps you bulk up for the winter.

Swiss Fondue!

When in the land of moo cows, cheese is ALWAYS in abundance. For the swiss national holiday, my girlfriends and I headed down to Lausanne to enjoy the festivities.

One of the must haves when in Switzerland is.. Fondue!

Fondue is based off the french word Fondre or melt.. and yes that is exactly what Fondue is.. a big melty pot of... CHEESE!!

Typically, fondue is a combination of Gruyere and another cheese. This ranges from region to region ie- Vacherin in the Fribourg region to the "Traditional" Emmenthaler cheese. This is typically done to try to balance out the flavors of the cheese. White wine or Kirsch (in addition to a variety of other flavors) can be added to add flavors and keep the cheese from directly frying over the heat.

Fondue is also typically eaten with a dry white wine to cut the heaviness of the cheese and a variety of local cured sausages (talk about calorie count eh?)
My girlfriends and I were lucky enough to meet some very hospitable Swiss boys from Zurich- Jurg on the right and Martin on the left who invited us to have some of this calorie rich, but very delicious traditional dish with them. They also explained to us the premise of the crazy festivities that were happening around us... some boat race thing that is in San Diego every year (crazy how I lived there for 10 years with NO clue about it). It was a great way to finish up our day in Lausanne- Great weather, great food and very very friendly people who opened a little bit more about their amazing culture to us!