Wine Tasting in the Côtes du Rhône

One of the advantages of living in Europe and having a French husband who's origins are right next to the Côtes du Rhône wine region is that we get amazing wine (and food).

Côtes du Rhône is an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlee (AOC).  That's fancy French speak for this stuff is really from where it says its from. The region is quite expansive as it is fed largely from the Rhône river.  The region is not entireley connected and consists of a northern region that starts from Vienne where one can find Côte- Rotie and continues down to the Côtes du Rhône area of Valence.
Just North of Côtes du Rhône is the Crozes-Hermitage region. It's here that the small village of Tain l'Hermitage is located -- about 10 minutes north of Valence.  Don't be fooled by this small village.  This place is packed with amazing Wineries representing the Crozes-Hermitage region including M. Chapoutier and Cave de Tain.

M. Chapoutier was an interesting visit as the bottles are all covered in braille.  The idea of this came when a friend of Mr. Chapoutier who is blind commented that it would be nice if wine labels were written in braille so that he could identify them.  The other story that is told is that one of the vineyards that belongs to Chapoutier had a blind member of the family who invented a short had version of Braille that is used on the bottles. Did I mention that Chapoutier is represented quite heavily on Maison Pic's wine list?

Wines in this region are grown and steep cliffs surrounding the river which is obviously harder to harvest.  The main grape varietal here is Syrah and Grenache noir.

The other awesome thing about Tain Hermitage is that it is the headquarters for Valrhona chocolate with a little boutique where there is all you can eat taste testing and now houses the Valrhona chocolate museum.  Valrhona is THE chocolate.. think of it as the Bugatti of the chocolate world.

Look behind the chairs! it's the vineyards

Heading south of Valence takes you to the Coteaux Du Tricastin region in Drome where we were staying.  There are plenty of small local wineries here to visit along the countryside.  While we were there, we visited two- one more "upscale" called Les Granges Neuves des Esplades. Wines from this region are usually Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvedre

The other- our personal favorite is a small, very local producer that is run by Fred.  Noelle from La Croix du Gres  (see here for blog posting on La Croix du Gres) phoned up Fred who doesn't usually give tours and set up a meeting.  There, Fred took us on a tour of the vineyards and into the winery.  Let me explain something about Val De Berre.  Who works on the vineyard- Fred, a friend and a friend's wife.  Yes three people care after the grapes, test the grapes, harvest the grapes and make the wine. This place is awesome!  Fred has been making wine his whole life.  His father was a wine maker and he spent most of his career working in vineyards in Châteauneuf-du-Pape before ending up at Vale de Berre.  

Val de berre's flour mill

The owner happened to have a big piece of land with a bunch of vines on it but it was never the owner's main enterprise.  Stuff like the flour mill which were already established and decided it would be a good idea to maybe make some wine. 

So that's where Fred came in.  Within two years of running his almost one man show at Val de Berre, Fred won a Gold Medal at the concours general agricole de Paris 2013 for his Chardonnay and a Silver medal for his "Sensation", a blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah.   Our personal favorite though is the Merlot that he produces.
Val de Berre isn't fancy - there isn't a tasting room but we had a fabulous time standing in the parking lot in front of his storage room where he sells his boxes of wines to the locals.  It was wan amazing experience.  Did I mention how affordable the bottles were?  

Fred doesn't do all that fancy lab testing that we see in most of the wineries in California.  He does everything the old fashion way-  with his taste buds.  

I'd like to think that this is what real food is suppose to be.  This is what makes France so special when it comes to great food and wine.  It's people like Fred who are passionate about what they do and just gosh darn good at it. 

Our "tasting room"-the parking lot

Addresses: 
Val de Berre
+33 4 75 98 5134
Le Moulin
26230 Chantermerle les Grignan, France

Les Granges Neuves des Esplanades
+33 4 75 98 5109
Domaine de Grangeneuve
26230 Roussas, France

M. Chapoutier
+33 4 75 08 28 65
18 Avenue Docteur Paul Durand
26600 Tain L'Hermitage, France

Cave de Tain
+33 4 75 08 20 87
22 Route de Larnage
26600 Tain L'Hermitage, France

Valhrona
 +33 4 75 07 90 62
14 venue Du President Roosevelt
26600 Tain L'Hermitage, France

Le Poeme de Grignan

Often when choosing restaurants, you do your research- guide Michelin, TripAdvisor etc.  Sometimes, you think "those reviews totally lied, this place sucks" but sometimes, sometimes you get really lucky and you think "This place totally deserves stars".  La Poeme de Grignan totally deserves stars

On our visit to Drome, we decided we would have one nice meal out.  I had settled on La Poeme based on the raving reviews it received on Tripadvisors.  The website wasn't convincing but the menu online seemed solid and the restaurants was only about 10 minutes away from our Gite in Grignan. 

We got a bit lost looking for the restaurant-- but we ended up taking a little stroll in old Grignan to find the restaurant which was extremely quaint and totally adorable.  The old stone buildings and blue window frames gave that totally romantic, relaxing, French Provencal feeling. 

I read online that the restaurant was small. I wasn't prepared for exactly how small it is.  It has 8 tables. That's it.  We were greeted by Valerie who is the hostess, server, bus boy-- well the only person who works the front of the house for the restaurant. The restaurant is decorated with old antiques- cosy and comfortable- a lot like La Croix du Gres, the Gite we were staying at.

The menus are incredibly well priced- a three course menu is 31 Euros and a 5 course 48 Euros.  We all had a hard time choosing because A. I was doing a horrible translation job and B. We all wanted everything on the menu.

the Amuse Bouche was an avocado mousse with rehydrated sun dried tomato and some whipped creme fraiche.  It was with the Amuse Bouche that it became clear. Chef Herve knows how to work his flavors.  Every bite was rich, round and full.  An amazing precursor to the plates that would follow.

My starter was Foie Gras Poele with mangoes.  While the food is rustic and simply presented, the flavors were just mind blowing.  The mango was sweet and succulent, the sauce with a tinge of red berry fruitiness and the Foie Gras rich and cooked to perfection with it's perfectly sauteed crust.  I still dream about this dish to this day.

My main dish was a pigeon dish with fresh vegetables.  The flavors were once again harmonious, round and rich.  I'm not sure how chef Herve does it, but the moment the food is in your mouth, the thought "This is exactly what perfect food tastes like" comes to mind. 

I'm a bad person and didn't take notes on the cheese. I think the one to the left is a munster cheese from Alsace. Sorry!

This dessert wasn't actually mine. but it was so fluffy that I had to take a picture of it. A Grand Marnier souffle with raspberry sorbet. I was told that it was silky smooth and delicious

This medley of chocolate- cake, ice cream and mousse accompanied by a raspberry espuma.  I'm not a big fan of espumas but I remember it having a really raspberry flavor.  The chocolate desserts were not to sweet but by this time I was struggling to finish all the food on my plate.

Near the end of dinner, Chef Herve came out to greet diners, serve tea and help clean up the last of the tables.  He heard from Valerie that we were looking for a cab.

Not only had we just enjoyed a perfect meal at La Poeme, Chef Herve offered to take us back to the Gite instead of calling a cab.  He was under the impression that we didn't have a car at all, and with 6 people, he was going to make 2 trips to take us all home.  That level of service blew us away.

If you ever get the chance to go to this absolute gem of a restaurant, I highly highly recommend it.  It's clear that Chef Herve has a clear command of his flavors and cooking technique.  On top of all of this, he puts in soul and heart into his cuisine and it shows and tastes like it.  I'm sure Chef Herve could open a larger restaurant- people would come but I don't think that is his motivation.  While Chef Herve drove us back to the Gite, I asked him about La Poeme.  For him, he's from here, he loves using the local ingredients because they are so amazing. He has no desire to move from here-- and no desire to expand. He cooks because he enjoys it, and he gets immense joy from seeing people enjoy his food.  I hope one day, you can experience and enjoy his food as well.

Address:
La Poeme de Grignan
04 75 91 10 90
Rue Saint Louis 27230 Grignan

The Nestle Outlet Factory..

*Warning* I am not responsible for any weight that you may gain after reading this posting. thank you.




At the beginning of the school year, I did the Cailler- Nestle chocolate factory walk. A mere 3 miles from my dorm-- it was a gorgeous jaunt through the forest and into the little town of Broc. I learned my lesson the hard way-- consuming so much chocolate that my stomach.. very angry at me and my head very dizzy from the sugar high taught me to restrain myself the next couple of times that I went.

I also heard a rumor of a "Nestle Factory Store". I researched and researched-- with no address, just a short 4 year old posting on trip advisor about this so called factory store. My friend and I drove aimlessly around Broc trying to find this "unsigned, nondescript white building next to the train station" with no luck.

Then the other day, it dawned on me (I think I was in the shower where my MOST productive thinking comes about). Nestle-- has websites-- Nestle has lots and lots of websites and a million products that I wanted to make a point that Nestle and Kraft are taking over the food world using the same branding techniques and growth strategies).
So, are you ready? I found the Nestle outlet store.. In fact, in Switzerland, there are 15 of them. The one in Broc is-- not next to the regular Broc Station-- it is next to the Broc- Nestle station. As you drive towards the Cailler factory, if you just pass the factory-- the next building after on the left hand side is.. THE OUTLET STORE!

Most everything is cheaper, but not everything. They have certain items that go on sale.. much like my new favorite chocolate bar: Dark Chocolate with Coco Nibs (mmmm)



The best time to go is after a holiday.. when all the holiday chocolates go on sale- if you are just looking for chocolate and do not care if they come in funny shapes of past holidays...

alright. I will be nice... here is the address and website link to other nestle outlet stores. Again I am not responsible for any weight that you may gain from this posting...

NESTLE SUISSE S.A.
Fabrique de Broc / Nestlé Shop
derrière la gare fabrique
1636 Broc

Hours:
Mon-Thursday 10.00 - 17.30
Friday 10.00 - 17.00

Marrons.. Mmm.. the obsession continues!

So I've had roasted Marrons (Lugano autumn chestnut festival) , I've had Marron Glace (candied marrons), Japanese chestnuts (smaller but not necessarily sweeter than their European counter parts, Vermecelli marrons, chestnut cake, chestnut mousse.. but SAVORY chestnuts? I've never seen this one before! I had to try it.

Made the best way, the cooked chestnuts are just lightly sauteed, butter melted over them, a little salt and chopped parsley. They were absolutely addicting (so much so I am going to make them for my parents). To accompany the soft sweet morsels, my boyfriend's mom also made duck confit and pomme puree.. I'm sure I have gained about 5 kilos because of her fabulous cooking.

If you ever want a quick, side dish-- this is the way to go. Delicious, quick and filled with vitamin c, potassium and iron... a new marron recipe to add to my Marron obsession!

Yeah Oui!

Wanted to give a big shout out to my Claridges crew. U guys (and I don't need to say who) are an amazing crew. I love you all dearly. Keep your heads up because you are ALL talented. xxx

Gordon Ramsay at Claridges
Brook Street
London W1K 4HR
Tel: 020 7499 0099
Reservations Recommended

* Update* Sadly in the summer of 2013, Gordon Ramsay at Claridges had it's last service.  The lease on the restaurant was up and GR holdings decided not to renew the lease. Rest In Peace GR at Claridges! 

*Warning* Genius, at work~

yeah yeah, So I've been busy over winter break ok? I went back to my English home kitchen, then to Porto, then back to my family in California- Manresa. I do miss the kitchen terribly. The warmth of the bonnet.... so comforting! The way everything flows in and out of the kitchen- people COMMUNICATING with each other... why can't all life function this way?

One of the greatest things about coming home was being around Chef Kinch. An artist, a teacher, a mentor and an incredible confident. Thank you Manresa for a wonderful Winter break and letting me come back! Miss you all terribly.

Manresa
320 Village Lane
Los Gatos, CA 95030-7218
(408) 354-4330
Closed Monday and Tuesday

I love Jamon

I spent my Christmas in Porto with my friend Nuno and his amazing family. His family figured out that besides being a rabbit and needing my veggies ( they have french fries and bread with EVERY MEAL) I also love JAMON!!!!! we managed to go through this moist, tender and not overly salty Portuguese version in 3 days.. it usually takes them two weeks.. oops... what can I say??? It's JAMON!

Ca Matilde: Ristorante Locanda

I know I owe you guys about four michelin reviews... but ok.. I owe you guys one more. I had the enormous pleasure of going to Cinque Terra to visit my foodie, amazing, fun, intelligent friend John who lives in Lerici Italy (well temporarily). Although we didn't make it to the Agritourismo that we so desperately wanted to, we did make it to Ca Matilde: Ristorante Locanda, 1 Michelin star. Located in the middle of no where in Rubbianino - Quattro Castella- Reggio Emilia (past Parma) in an old house, we were expecting a rustic italian dining experience. Instead what we got was an incredible, rustic- with definite innovative ideas (especially in the dessert department!) meal.

The review will go up sooner or later. In the meantime, here are some pictures to drool over.


Parma Ham.. ham ham ham!


The cheese plate, Parmigiano-Reggiano!!!! Deliciouso!!!


and of course, no meal of mine is complete without a bottle of bubbly- Prosecco in this case.

Ca Matilde
Ristorante Locanda
Via della Polita 14,
42020 Loc. Rubbianino
Quattro Castella (Reggio Emilia)
Telefono 0522.889560
Cell. 339.7874556

St. Marcellin

Continuing on with my Michelin cheese board obsession, I had a beautiful cheese plate from the Meierei of Steirereck im Stadtpark in Vienna Austria as my fourth course from the insanely packed cheese trolley. I chose again, super runny (as usual)! My favorite cheese was the creamy gooey St. Marcellin accompanied by the home made farmers bread from the bread trolley (yes they are REALLY into trolley's in Vienna).. they also have a champagne trolley , herb trolley, and sweet liquor trolley....


Saint Marcelin is produced in the Rhone Alps region of South Eastern France in the town of Isere. A soft creamy cheese cows milk cheese composed of 50% fat, St. Marcellin has a nutty, mushroomy aroma. Usually packed in small terra cota pots to handle the creaminess, they lose their creaminess with age- and should be consumed young and tender. Much like Vacherin Mont D'Or AOC, it is believed that the cheese was originally made from goat's milk but converted to cow milk at one point in time.

Creamy, nutty , complex, rich- the rind again wonderful. It is said that the cheese should be chewed to help release its full flavor.

Two thumbs up. St. Marcellin now added to the cheese repertoire.

Vacherin Mont-d'Or AOC

Okok, so yes, I am in the land of fromage et chocolate.. and yes, I'm beginning to love ALL of it. Well maybe not the calories.. the cheese at least.. One cheese that I have been dying to try is Vacherin Mont-d'Or AOC. For me, and anyone who knows me, I am all about the goat, sheep, stinky moldy cheese OR the super runny, you know your stomach is so gonna churn later but it's gonna be so silky smooth on your tongue rich and creamy cheeses and worth all the pain cheeses.

Collecting my 7th michelin star dining experience since moving to Suisse two weeks ago at Le Perolles in Fribourg, Hayley and I added on a cheese course to our lunch sampler. I opted for a plate full of goat and sheep cheeses and an added Vacherin Mont-d'Or selection.

Vacherin Mont-d'Or (not to be confused with Vacherin Fribourgeois, which is our local AOC cheese)originates in the Valee de Joux in Jura- Canton de Vaud.It's believed that Vacherin is actually of French origin, made from goat's milk. The story goes that there was a shortage of goat's milk and thus cow's milk was used in its place. A relatively watery cheese, within every 100g, about 25% of it is fat, 55% water.

There are a couple of distinct characteristics to Vacherin:
1. the wooden pine container (band)that it's kept in (it's a super runny cheese, needs the support)
2. the orangy, yellow crust of the cheese with its soft dimples and folds of the soft cheese below.
3.There is often a white moldy fur that grows on the surface of the tangy, crusty goodness of the cheese.

I have to admit that I was hoping for something a little more pungent. The cheese is sweet, slightly tangy but not overpowering in flavor- in fact, none of the cheese I had on my plate had the punch that I had been hoping for (I love it when your nose tingles from the tanginess of the cheese). A great cheese to accompany fruits- it won't overpower the sweet/tartness of the fruit but will complement it quite well.

My favorite- favorite part of the cheese was the gritty, slightly crunchy crust layer of the cheese.. all this cheese talk in the morning is making me hungry! Must go to my local latterie today and pick up some cheese!

Le Perolles- 1 Michelin Star, Fribourg

So.. I guess this blog is a dual post. The first thing I should do is apologize for not writing sooner. With all the traveling, school work and turning into an asian popsicle as the weather has take a turn for the worst, I haven't gone to think about what to do next.
Haley and I decided to take a mini Vacay - to Fribourg- yes it's only 30 minutes away and I already go there at least once a week but.. after starving a whole week on dorm food, blowing our entire week's budget on what would have been dorm food on a Michelin experience seemed quite fitting.
The second part of my post is to introduce a new series of photos that I will be taking- food art- the art of what's left on the plate after someone has consumed what they like, dislike and don't want to consume any more of.

Keep posted.. I promise ill get around to all those michelin reviews sooner or later...

It's Marron Time!

After a strenuous two weeks in Financial Accounting, the girls and I couldn't wait to take our road trip to Lugano, located in the Canton of Ticino in the southern, east region on Switzerland. Bordering Italy, Lugano is the Italian speaking part of Switzerland. The weekend coincided with the Autumn festival where chestnut (marron) season is just beginning.

One of the most pleasant surprises was that the headquarters for Münger a Panetteria, Pasticceria, & a Confetteria that has been around since 1923 was around the corner from our hotel in Paradiso. On our morning jaunt down to the lakeside, we stopped in to see what delectable delights the Panetteria ( bread shop), Pasticceria ( Pastry shop) & Confetteria ( Chocolate/ sweet shop) - Yes this one was ALL three combined into one.. had to offer.

It is gooseberry season as well as chestnut season in Switzerland. I was tempted to buy a whole bunch of these chocolate covered gooseberries along with the dark chocolate marron.. but was good and restrained myself.

Münger is really famous for their chestnut based treats around this time. The thing that most people get is the Panettone, a chestnut bread that looks like a giant muffin. The bread only lasts a day or two (well of course!) so I opted for the Marronitorte - something that was gonna last us a day or two for our stay in Praha (prague)

Münger's Marronitorte was a great treat for Cza and I. It wasn't too sweet, with the crust crispy but the torte itself very very moist. The torte had chunks of sweet chestnuts ( not marron glace) that lent texture to the soft moistness of the torte. It was delicious- with Cza and I having to do everything we could not to finish it on the first night.

Some more noteworthy chestnut treats for the season (from Münger as well) are the Vermicelles (chestnut puree of a a cream custard, topped with heavy cream) , Castagne E Panna - or in French Marron Glace- chestnuts macerated in sugar and liquor and lastly the Torta Pane- a chestnut cake with pinenuts- more like a cornbread sort of texture.

Did I mention that I LOVE chestnuts???

Münger

Three locations in Lugano:

Laboratorio Negozio + Tea Room

Via Geretta 7

6900 Paradiso - Lugano

Tel: 091-985-69-40

walk in bakery, pastry shop and chocolate shop

In the heart of Old Town shopping district:

Negozio + Tea Room

Via Luvini 4

6900 Lugano

Tel: 091-985-69-43

Negozio

Lungolago Motto

6815 Melide

Tel: 091-649-74-14

4 Michelin stars, 1 week

Preview on some restaurants I visited this week...

Motto De Gallo, 1 Michelin Star, Lugano, Switzerland, Executive Chef: Jose De La Iglesa



Mraz & Sohn, 1 Michelin Star, Wien, Osterreich, Executive Chef: Markus Mraz


Steirereck im Stadtpark, 2 Michelin Star, Wien, Austria, Executive Chef: Heinz Reitbauer


Motto De Gallo
Via Bicentenario 16
CH-6807 Taverne
Ticino
Tel:0041-919452871

Mraz & Sohn
Wallensteinstrasse 59
1200 Wien
Osterreich
Tel:00431-3304594

Steirereck im Stadtpark
Am Heumarkt 2A
im Stadtpark
A-1030 Wien
Osterreich
Tel:0043-17133168

My FAVORITE restaurant

Can you blame a girl for wanting simple, traditional, really well cooked food? St. JOHN has never disappointed me. Small tapas style plates, beautifully executed dishes. The food is not fussy- it's just TASTY. We frequent the Spitafields location for its more casual atmosphere. The menu is split up into times- when the food will be ready. Main entrees usually are ready around 1, small plates around noon. Pay special attention to the chalkboard where specials are written. Once they are gone, THEY ARE GONE!
My favorite dish was the Black Pudding with prunes and bacon. The residual sauce was sopped up with St. John's fresh baked bread. The prunes, bacon and perfectly seasoned blood cake was so rich, so full of flavor- I realized how depressed I was to have to go back to Switzerland that day.
The Beet Salad with Goat Curd and Sorrel- classic flavors, light refreshing and of course seasoned well.

English tomatoes, Lovage and shallots. The marinated tomaotes with the shallots and freshness of the lovage made for an irresistible first plate. The tomatoes sweetness were enhanced by the lovage and marinated shallots. So simple yet so good. This is what food is SUPPOSE to be.
Deep had been talking about this one for ages! Foie Gras and Duck Liver toast, cornichons and sea salt. Rich, creamy.. who doesn't like Foie Gras?? Calories?? BRING IT ON. I ate ALL OF IT.

Dessert commenced with a Brown Bread Ice Cream. A creamy creme anglais base, slightly nutty with chunks of Brown bread spread throughout. I thought it would be interesting- the hardness of the crusty bread and the creamyness of the ice cream. I couldn't stop myself.. This was incredible!
Rice pudding with strawberry jam and a hunka butter. The Strawberry jam lent sweetness, the rice pudding creamy.

And of course, half a dozen freshly baked, just came out of the oven, crusty on the outside, moist on the inside St John's Madelines. No meal is every complete at St. JOHN without them.

St. JOHN has never disappointed me. From the bread to the small plates and of course the desserts ( here is a secret, their desserts are better then the main courses so SAVE ROOM FOR IT!!)

If you only have time for one meal in London, this is hand down, the one to go to.

St. JOHN Bread & Wine Spitafields
Reservations HIGHLY recommended
94-95 Commercial Street
London E16LZ
Tel: 0272510848

Ladies Who Lunch

I was fortunate enough to be able to go back to my old kitchen to have lunch. Starting with some bubbly in the Fumoir room, the atmosphere was relaxing (ok maybe a bit pretentious.. it is Gordon Ramsay @ Claridges after all darling!) leisurely lunch.

After being greeted by some more Ayala, Brut Majeur, NV, Britt and I settled on our menu.
Then the non stop food ensued for the next 4 hours. First up were canapes with truffled cream cheese and taramasalata. After that came special canapes- truffled asparagus balls, quail eggs on mini potato pancakes and courgette rolls. The caramelized onion bread and olive bread after that and then finally the amuse! Pumpkin soup with sour cream foam and BACON!
I opted for the hot smoked Cornish mackerel, baby gem,white grape and caper dressing. The smoked mackerel was just smoked (not overcooked like I've seen done soooo many times last year...)
Britt went for the salad of marinated Enligsh tomatoes, goat's cheese cream, fennel beignets, Noir de Bigorre Ham. She said that it was absolutely delicious (why yes, the food is SEASONED well for a change.. unlike what we get back in Bulle... )

We were then treated to Roasted Scottish Scallops, Panch Phoran Shallots with a sweetcorn veloute (Courtesy of Tucker's hot starter section.. you did good Tuckers)

For the main, both of us had the Sauteed fillets of Rye Bay Plaice, Razor Clams, pickled baby carrots, coriander veloute ( not shown, picture was blurry.. hey I was on my 4th glass of creamy champagne.. can you blame a girl???) Rouge picked out beautiful pieces of Plaice for us- the texture light and flakey, delicate and gorgeous with the coriander veloute.

We then got to take a little breather with a kitchen tour.

Upon returning, we were greated with New Season English Strawberry Bavarois, olive oil and black pepper ice cream- light, not too heavy and LOVED the black pepper ice cream.
Britt opted for the English plum tart, mirabelle and lemon ice cream
While chocolate loving me, went for the Bitter Chocolate Parfait, pink grapefruit sorbet. The best part was the crumb on the bottom of the parfait. The tartness of the grapefruit went beautifully with the bitterness of the chocolate.

We finished off with tiramsu and brandy truffles petite fours

and, another kitchen tour ( and of course I finally got to see Pete!)

It was a wonderful afternoon, beautifully executed food. Thank you so much!!

Gordon Ramsay @ Claridges

Reservations Mandatory

Best Deal in London: 3 course set lunch

40 Brook Street
London W1K 4HR
Tel: 02074990099
reservations@gordonramsay.com